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Salt, smoke & time · 5 min · 4 beats

Salt is a schedule, not an amount

When you salt changes more than how much you salt.

  1. Salt travels; flavour mostly doesn’t

    Salt is a tiny molecule and it moves right through cell walls into muscle. The aromatic molecules in herbs, garlic and spice are enormous by comparison and get a few millimetres in at best. That single fact explains why an overnight salting transforms a chicken and an overnight herb marinade barely changes it.

    1. Salt on top
    2. Water drawn out
    3. Drawn back in

    Worth remembering Salt seasons the inside. Everything else seasons the surface.

  2. Out, then back in

    Salt on the surface first pulls water out — after an hour a salted piece looks wet. Leave it and that concentrated brine gets drawn back in, carrying the salt deep. Interrupt it halfway and you have the worst of both: a wet surface that will not brown and an unseasoned centre.

    1. Salt on top
    2. Water drawn out
    3. Drawn back in

    Worth remembering Salt an hour before is worse than salting a day before, or right before.

  3. Dry beats wet, most of the time

    A wet brine and a dry salting season equally deeply, but a wet brine adds water to the surface and dilutes the meat’s own flavour, while a dry salting leaves the surface drier than it started. Drier surface means better browning — so unless you specifically want the extra weight, salt directly and leave it uncovered in the fridge.

    Worth remembering Uncovered in the fridge overnight. The dry surface is the bonus.

  4. Where the schedule becomes the dish

    Run the same process for a day or more and it stops being seasoning and becomes transformation: enough water leaves that the flesh firms, goes translucent and keeps. Gravlax and bacon are salted fish and pork that were simply left long enough. Nothing was cooked — only time was added.

    Worth remembering Minutes season. Hours penetrate. Days change what the thing is.

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